Baltic States - Fall 2019

With a blue sky, it's hard to take a bad picture in Amsterdam However, while camera is poised, you watch traffic Bikes, cars, trucks, bikes, and more bikes - Did I mention bikes? Haven't seen postcards  for a long time They are here in massive quantities as are tourists Amsterdam's Red Light District (in daylight)  Not the Art we wanted Rijksmuseum, Central Station and Moco Museum designed by same Dutch Architect Pierre Cuypers He incorporated a library inside the Rijksmuseum It's a treasure Moco Museum had an exhibit of Bansky street art - A theme this trip Pieces from private collections - Authenticated but not sanctioned Girl with balloon, a well-known favorite Art is everywhere Inside vestibules On a building wall Dinner last night with Jessica, Wouter, Max and Sophie, who live in a 1890 Dutch home Their neighborhood built just after the Rijksmuseum opened - wonderful buildings, small shops and restau

Glimpses of the Baltic Sea between the pines Much of our long drive followed the coast of Estonia and Latvia as we headed to the airport to return the car, spend the night in Riga, and fly to Amsterdam tomorrow Missed the first ferry off Saaremaa island by 2 minutes - but only an hour until the next one A quick 30 minute crossing Enjoyed the island  Taking a ferry gives it a strong vibe of getting away Had a bit of a struggle finding lunch on the mainland highway (2 lanes lined by pines) Finally saw a sign (in English) and we scored I was happy - sea trout paired with baked avocado topped with shrimp & cheese, surrounded by baby greens with blueberries, radish and a berry I'd never tasted before (size of a grape with the coloring of a watermelon) 14Euro Sandy pleased with pork ribs and roasted potatoes, despite the flavorful carrot puree 12 Euro Nice place to stumble upon Some fun facts ....   - Drove 1,697 miles, about average  - Sp

The grounds of Kuressaare Fortress are now a city park  Defensive moats and battlements serving a better purpose This fortress is unique with fortifications that have never been demolished Spanning mid-1400s to mid-1800s Layers of change for modern-day archeologists to explore Unfortunately, most displays without  English translations Fortress faces the bay and Baltic Sea  This afternoon we went hunting for two ancient churches from 13C Directions were incomplete Pieced together from various Google sources When found, both closed Could only enjoy the outside Where remnants from the past are still found on exterior walls Found a cemetery nearby - always interesting  Set among towering pines Plots packed closely together Moss, ferns, and woodland plants Stone and iron markers, along with tombs Worthy of a cemetery tour Many stories here Two women caretakers carefully tending certain plots Wiping down the stones

Departed Tallinn to start the return to Riga, Latvia, but not without detours and stops Beautiful day in Estonian on good roads - Much better than Latvia Arrived in Happsalu, which has a castle A single tower, outsides walls and moat remaining  However.... Despite being a ruin for several centuries (sketch below from mid-1800s) Built by the German Knights of the Sword in the 1300s to convert the native pagans to Christianity  (while pillaging and plundering) Defenses like cannons and bastions added over centuries  Succumbing to Russian rule under the Tsar in the 1700s Then abandoned for defensive purposes Today, twisting passageways are modernized from a European Union grant Housing displays covering the castle's life with reconstructed stone walls, steel catwalks, and cafe Perfect for scampering about   A Renovation, not a Restoration, opening this past June  Great learning and dreaming taking place here - WoW  Minutes away, a true ruin C

Visited the Patarei Prison  Built in 1840s under Russian tsar rule Turned into a prison, gaining a grim brutal history under Soviet and German occupations Makes me remember our guide in Belgrade Serbia, "It's never the people, it's the politicians" In this case, also the military  Many Estonians  died here Abandoned in 2002, nothing's been touched which makes it extraordinary This exhibit opened in May, closes September 30th  (it's unheated) Feels like a pop-up museum  (it's very well done) Disabled discouraged from visiting (it's raw) Next stop - funky Telliskivi Creative City   10 abandoned warehouses housing artists and designers Street art abounds Spotted a piece by Edward von Longus from Tartu Returned to the old city center Visiting churches Despite threatening skies Not a drop hit us Skies returned to blue  Alexander Nevsky Cathedral His name on many Eastern Orthodox churches (g